January 4, 2011
Both in décor and individuals, New Orleans is more unique than any other city I've seen. The roads are narrow. The sidewalks melt into the streets and, within a block, vary in material from brick to cement to pavement and back. The houses are close enough that homeowners could high-five in their respected digs.
Hurricane destruction is still evident. Freshly painted houses stand next to broken homes with boarded windows and spray painted identities. Today, I seen a nearly toppled home with a DirecTV satellite dish firmly attached to its half-shingled rooftop.
Oil refineries fill the outskirts of town. Smokestacks billowing black smoke are visible until the polluted haze of New Orleans masks the suburban pollution. Amateur graffiti cover buildings from uptown to downtown. It's not art. It's hallucinating font emulating elementary hate mail.
Last night my roommate, Phil, and I stumbled upon The Blue Nile, a bar near the French Quarter. They were holding the 30th annual birthday celebration for a women name Pat. It’s widely recognized. People from California to New York attended the party. The theme: crazy and ugly hats. A theme carried over from Pat’s first ever party. I talked to a guy that said The Blue Nile ownership changed a handful of times over the years but every new owner understands the bar comes with Pat’s annual birthday celebration. She is known throughout the artistic community as the most beloved photographer. A guy I spoke with said she has been photographing him for years but he has never seen a single photograph. It’s her shtick.
Valerie, our New Orleans contact, met us at the airport. She connects us with community members who will participate and contribute to our projects. We toured the 9th Ward, where Valerie lives. It’s become a tourist spectacle, with multiple daily bus tours. As she walked us through her house she came upon a two-person balcony and promptly said, “and this is where I watch the tourist.” Her light-hearted tone masked the discontent her eyes exposed.
I’m slowly settling in with the group of 12 that sought the same cultural immersion I did when I signed up for this UW of Milwaukee program. We all get along. I’m sleeping in a bed I grew out of when I turned 11. But the social hour and breakfast bar makes up for the child's bed. There’s a hot tub and pool in the backyard. I forgot my swim trucks but I do have underwear. There’s little difference after they’re wet.
I expect I'll have something to write about everyday and hope to update this blog accordingly so until then...